22 October 2012

Tafraout
Breakfast
Invite
Walk
Lizard/Squirrel
Town
Dinner

A sleep in today and then out for breakfast. We were promised a map with walking routes around the area, but there doesn’t seem to be anybody around. Andrew is still feeling slightly miserable, but not bad enough to stay in bed.
While enjoying our omelette breakfast we got talking to a Dutch Berber. He lives in Amsterdam but was born in a small town around here. He invites us to come to his town to celebrate the lamb fest with him and his family. We happily accept, but he dashes of again before telling us which village he is from. So not sure if this will happen. (Lamb fest is one of the most important Muslim celebrations. Commemorating the time when Allah asked Abraham to kill his son. It is on friday, but the party can start on thursday and last till saturday. We don’t really know what to expect as tourist. Public transport shuts down and maybe even shops and cafe’s will be closed.)

We also run into our nice man from the hotel at this cafe and he tells us a bit more about the area. We also get our promised map. Asking about our plan to go from here to Tata, we get a refreshingly honest answer. There are no busses from here directly to there or even taxi’s, but there is a multiple day tour that goes though Tata to Zagora and the sand dunes. But if we have the time and want to do it cheaper, he advises us not to do the tour.. (?) We are used to everybody always advising us to do the tours! The best way is to take a bus to Inzegane and from there head east and skip Tata completely as there is nothing there. A bit disappointing that we can’t take the route we planned on, but this way we will get to visit a few other towns along the way. He also gave us some good tips on the gorges around and places to stay.

Oasis in between the hills

For today we decide to just go for a small walk and not one of the bigger recommended ones. We can save those for when Andrew is feeling better.

Cute frogs hopping about

Just out of town is a good hill that we climb up and are rewarded with a great view. As it turns out there is a little oasis down the other side in between the mountains. We rock hop our way there and enjoy the dragonflies and frogs.

Brown rock lizards

On the way back we notice some bigger wildlife moving about. At first we think they are big lizards, but we have never seen lizards jump so much from one rock to the next. Eventually we figure out they are rock squirrels and now we are seeing them everywhere. Racing over the rocks and hiding under little overhangs.

Back at the hotel Andrew goes for a lie down and Anna takes a walk around town. Town is fairy small, so it was only a short walk.

Little shoe shop

People here are very friendly and you get greeted with “Bonjour! Ca Va?” everywhere. I walked to the big mosque and around the different squares. Many stalls are set up selling mostly berber crafts. A specialty here seem to be leather shoes. Babouches. They make them here in all kinds of colours and designs. Little alleyways are totally dedicated to just shoes and it smells of leather and glue. A lot of the men wear them in yellow and the local Berber women wear the many many coloured ones. The women here wear mostly black with sparkling decoration at the edges. Set of by the bright shoes and skirts they combine with this. Different than we have seen so far. In Tiznit and Agadir a lot of the women wore very colourful dresses. We assume it is a Berber thing.

AA

21 October 2012

Waiting for bus
Bus trip
Check in
Dinner

Bit of a boring day. Andrew was not feeling well. (A bad head cold and running a fever.) We still wanted to leave Tiznit or check in to a better hotel. Anna went out to find out the options. The CTM bus to Tafraout would leave at 16.00 or there was a decent hotel nearby with wifi. Back to Andrew to see how he was going. Apparently well enough to do a 2 hour bus trip.

Bus

Back to the bus office to book the tickets, only to find out that today’s bus was full. Mmm.. Tomorrow then? No, tomorrows bus is also full.. Great, now what. Go all the way with grand taxi’s?
As it turned out there was another bus going, from a different tour company. An older, not so fancy bus. Good enough. It was going to leave at 15.00 and we passed our time with a fresh juice and lunch before we went.

It is a beautiful drive between Tiznit and Tafarout. The road goes through the atlas mountains and through the Kerdous pass. We tried to take some photo’s along the way of the changing landscapes, but not all came out well. It was not an unpleasant drive, until we realised that we had already been driving for more then 2 hours and Tafraout was still 48km away. (Tiznit-Tafrout is about 100km) We were climbing up one lane mountain roads, stopping at all the tiny villages so the other travelers could stock up on chicken, bread and gossip. At this rate we would not be in Tafraout before dark.

We finally arrived at about 19.00. Already dark. We have never been so happy to be of a bus..
A nice man approached us at the bus stop, inviting us to stay at his hotel. “The hotel is mentioned in Lonely Planet book” Oh god.. That probably means it is way overpriced, but we still went for a look. It turned out to be ok. They have tried a lot with the decorations and it has a roof terrace with a Berber tent. Just to cold to sleep in now. We book in for 2 nights. A quick tangine dinner down the road and we have to call it a night.

AA

20 October 2012

Tiznet
Mosque
Silver
Taxi
Mirleft

Today we decided to try a shared taxi, so called grand taxi, to Mirleft. A beach town further south.

It’s peaceful in the medina early in the morning.

First though another walk through Tiznit’s old medina to see the old mosque. The medina was built in 1882 and the mosque is about the same age. It was easy enough to find. The medina was surprisingly quite and peaceful. Heading from the mosque to the taxi stand we got a bit lost. The medina here is only small, but there are plenty of narrow winding alleys that keep turning you around. We ended up at a local market and thought we would follow this road back to the main part of town. People were selling vegetables, pottery, bread etc.

Intricate Silverwork.

A nice man started talking to us and wanted us to have a look at his work. He worked with silver. His shop was nearby back in the medina. At arriving we found out we had already walked passed it this morning. He proudly showed us some of his bracelets and a beautiful snake belt of intricate silver made for a bride. We were shown how the filigree is done and the adding of colour. (coral, jade etc.) Beautiful old pieces from the Berber tribes were on display. Even though we had made it clear before that we were not interested in buying, he did off course want to sell us something at the end. It was tempting as the jewelry was stunning and he had been so nice, but we declined. (We can’t buy a souvenir of every kind person.) He was fine about it and after showing us out disappeared on his bike. This left us back in the medina not knowing wich way was out.

Grand taxi’s

We wandered up and down some more dead-end streets till we made it out and we actually made it out the right gate. The taxi stand was straight ahead. We had a coffee before finding our taxi. There were already three passengers in and we got the front seat. A bit of a wait for the sixth passenger and we were off. It is a bit full with the driver, two people in the front and four in the back, but all in all not to bad. The drive is only about an hour and it is quite stunning. Through the hills and little pink boxed villages. It seems like the old buildings are box-shaped houses made from mud.
The newer houses are the same shape, but built with brick and concrete and then painted to resemble the old mud. They just don’t get the colour quite right and it varies from brown to pink to orange. There are prickly pears everywhere and they seem to be planted on purpose. Not sure if it is a crop or that they are planted to keep the goats out of the paddocks.

Mirleft town

At arriving at Mirleft smaller taxi’s where waiting to take us to the beach, but we declined. How far can the ocean be? We have already seen it driving in. It turns out to be further then we tought and there where no real roads going there. We made out way over flat rocky land and past garbage and new construction sites. The coast here is gorgeous.

The colours of the rocks

Big cliffs with little beaches nestled in between. The rocks come in many colours and we have never seen so many different types of cactuses in one place. The hills are covered by them. We have come the see the famous archway overhang, but do not know which way it is. We gamble and go right. We have a great walk along the cliff with different viewpoints. At one cliff the local fishermen hang out trying their luck. Eventually we make it to the Grand Beach of Mirleft and decide to go back. We did not find the arch, but it was not nessicary.

Now grand taxi’s do not have a set time of leaving. They go when the taxi is full. Not knowing how popular Mirleft is we thought we might have quite a wait for fellow passengers going to Tiznit. Well, we were wrong. The first taxi to arrive had only one seat available, so we decided to wait for the next. When it came we stood no chance as the waiting women stormed forward. No big deal, next one will be ours. It was quite a wait before this one came and a whole group of young men showed up just before the taxi did. They flew towards it and one even dived into the front seat before the taxi had stopped. We had been waiting and when the men were organizing their luggage in the boot, went to sit in the backseat. This caused a bit of a tiff. They were expecting us to get out so they could ride together. We told them we had been waiting longer and we wanted to go back to Tiznit. They agreed after a while and we made in back in good time. While having a tea in town Andrew started to feel badly, so went for a lie down. He was well enough to come out for a quick dinner, but we did not get back in touch with Hassan as we had promised. Too bad, as was really good. We will have to send him a thank you email.

AA

19 October 2012

Travel Day
Going to Tiznit
Or Not
Tiznit

Today we had to get out of Agadir.  We have been here for three days now, and it is time to move on.  As this will be the first time we are changing locations in Moroc, we were a bit worried.  We don’t know the transport system, and all that goes with it.  We did know that there are big intercity busses, and shared taxi’s that ply the trade between smaller towns.  However which was better?  We found out that the busses are more expensive, but comfortable, whereas the taxi’s fit 6 people + driver into a car (2 on the front seat and 4 on the back).  We decided on a bus.

The opportunity facing us here was to pick a location.  The entire country is open to us.  We were not sure if we should start heading north, as there is not that much to the south, or east where there are supposed to be some interesting towns.  On top of this, we don’t know if we are going to try and get into Mauritania or not…  It is a hard life!  We selected Tiznit to the south.  It is the silver capital of the area, and apparently there is a large camel market further south on Fridays.  We wanted to see just how many 4000 camels are.  This is the highest offer I have been made for Anna so far.  A bit of a joke, and we think the numbers are so high as to make sure of it.  If I was offered 50 camels, I might think they were serious.  Although, 4000 would be a bit on the low side for me.  You would have to throw a few liters of Amber and a kilo of saffron…

Now we just had to get there.  Luggage and all.  The helpful people at reception found the bus station for us on the map, and it is a way past the souk.  Not practical with our bags, so we had to take a taxi.  Another first here.  With my pregidous against taxi drivers I was a bit worried.  The first taxi to stop did not speak english (well, it is Morocco) and it took a while to get a mutual understanding of where we wanted to go.  Still we got there in the end, and then had to set a price.  He started with 10DH.  Done!  We had been quoted about 15 DH in the hotel, and we were not going to argue over a dollar.

Le Petit Taxi

The taxi trip was good, as we got to see a bit more of the city that we hadn’t walked already, and my only issue with the petite taxi as they are called, other than their distinctive red colour, is their size.  They are small.  Our luggage had to be on the back seat as there is less storage in these things than a matchbox mini minor.  It was a good thing that we had an idea of where we were going though.  About half way there, our driver was taking us to the taxi station rather than the bus.  On informing him of this, it was not a problem.  U-turn in a busy street and off into the opposite direction.  I was dreading the increase of price that was sure to come.  On arriving at the station it didn’t happen.  He was happy with his 10DH, and off he went, leaving me confused about the lack of problems.  I just hope all our taxi rides here are like this.

City hopping on public transport

The bus station is a large circular building, and on entering there are only 2 kiosks to buy tickets.  The big CTM and Supr@tours.  We tried the smaller first.  Today had been running so well that there had to be a catch.  They were sold out of seats.  There was one at 8pm to Tiznit, but we declined, not knowing if we could find a hotel easily or not.  Tomorrow was fully booked as well.  We went outside to regroup and work out what we wanted to do.  Looking at the CTM side, it did not seem as if they go there.  Outside we were approached by a big taxi ( inter town one) driver.  He asked where we wanted to go.  On telling him, he started to offer us a taxi for 400DH.  Not interested.  it progressively dropped, and eventually he went and got a list of places and prices.  It was marked on here as being 250DH.  Still not interested.  200 was his final offer.  Not interested.  We wanted to take the bus (although we would have the taxi to ourselves).  Going back in we tried to book a ticket to Taroudant to the east.  Booked out.  Tomorrow?  Nope, full again.  So again over to CTM, this time we waited for the people to finish, and ask.  They did go to Tiznit.  After a few clicks of the mouse we found that there were even seats on todays bus.  2:30pm  Perfect.  Tickets booked.  However it was still before 11.  What are we going to do for the next few hours with all our luggage?  Finding out we could drop our bags off, we went down stairs.  The building must be on a hill, as there are three floors, and we were on the top.  You have to go out the back of the building on the bottom to get to the busses.  On the bottom floor we found all the rest of the bus companies.  There were a few!  We had no idea they were there.  It was an extra 5DH to drop our bags, but this was fine, as it was an inclusive service, and they would make sure the bags were on the bus.  Well, that took all of ten minutes.

Souk again

As we were fairly close to the Souk, we started walking down there.  It was a lot further than we expected, and by the time we got there, we were wondering if we were on the right road.
Preparing ourselves for the worst, we went in.  This time we went in the opposite gate and started at the jewelry and trinket area.  Walking around the complex, passing through all the different sections, we found that we had only done a small amount yesterday.  There was clothing, music, tailors and more.  The furniture section was interesting, as there were some lovely pieces being made.  We escaped into this section,as we were sure they would not try to sell us anything!  The smells of varnish and sawdust mingling with the fragrances of the spices further away.  If we lived in Morocco, there would be no problems furnishing a house!  Then we came upon the shoes.  All different types from the plastic crocs to traditional leather boots.  There were cobblers repairing them, and hawkers selling them.  A true riot of colours.
During this time we only got hassled twice.  The first was when we came across a stall we had been at yesterday, and not bought something, and another when we stopped to admire some woven platters.  The technique was similar to what Anna had been taught in Arnhem Land, so we had to have a proper look at them.  They had the standard fibres insides, but the weave was a plasticy substance.  It worked well for the piece.  However the salesman saw this as interest, and it was hard to extract ourselves from his at times physical grip.
This done, we still had time to spare.  Sitting outside watching an altercation between a taxi driver that had run his car into the back of a womans vehicle was interesting for a while.  The traffic building up, and trying to get around the two vehicles in the middle of the road.  Then off for a cup of tea at a cafe, looking onto some ugly buildings, and a busy arterial road managed to pass some time, and not just from the bad quality of the tea.
The bus turned up a bit early, and was gone by 2:30.  It was a good thing we were at the station or we would have missed it.  Not sure if this is standard, but I think we will be early for the next one as well.  The drive to Tiznit is about 98km (in the book from tourist info 78km) and should take an hour and a half or so.  It took about an hour to get out of Agadir.  We had to drive to the depo for fuel, and then back to the main road.  On the way there were many half finished buildings.  Not sure if these are new projects, or people running out of money.  Further into the trip these buildings kept cropping up, but were completely done and rendered on the outside, and empty on the inside.  The colours of the buildings also started changing from trying to be nice white colours with a coating of dust and car exhaust to pinks browns and oranges.  Again, most with a covering of dust.


The landscape was fairly flat around us, but you could see the Anti-Atlas mountains in the distance.  There were a few towns in between, and lots of stony plains.  These had cairns built up all over them, and we are not sure if these are marking out people’s plots or not.  It seems that they are only growing cacti if they are.  Closer to Agadir there are massive greenhouses, but these peter out further away.  We did cross a small creek that had water in it, and a few broken down buildings and walls.

View from Bus

About two km from Tiznit the bus stopped at a rest stop for the driver to get a feed, and we had to wait for the next half an hour, while the clouds rolled in overhead, and it started to rain.  By the time we left it was a fairly heavy storm, and it was still coming down when we reached Tiznit.  The trip had taken us over two and a half hours!  Driving into the city we stopped worrying about accommodation, as there were plenty of clearly marked hotels along the main road.  Pulling into the bus bay, grabbing our bags and getting out of the rain.  It started easing up when we found a hotel for the night.  A bit run down, but in our price range.  (The room is still bigger than our first night though).

Palace at Tiznit

We had no idea of where we were in relation to the city, or what there is to see, so off we went to explore a bit.  As it happens we stumbled across tourist info straight away, so we stepped in to get some info.  The guy there was just closing up for the night, but was happy to see us.  A map, some tips about the town and we expected to be off.  We asked about a specific beach we had heard about, and how to get there, and he offered to show us the way to the taxi station (no busses).  This would be great.  Along the way he took us into the old medina (town).  This is completely walled off, and includes a jewish sector (although the last jew here died about three years ago), the old souk, which is focused on silver, and the palace.

Medina

The palace was built in 1883 when the king at the time founded the city.  There is also an important water resevoir here, that the town is named after, but did not see it.  Wandering the streets of the medina talking was a lot of fun, and the traffic managed to avoid us, as we were not paying any attention to it.  Out the other side through one of the gates in the wall, we were at a taxi station.  This was to go to different places, and not the one we wanted.  Hassan (our impromptu guide) was fascinating.  He had studied tourism at Uni, and seemed to be happy to have interested people to practice his english with.  A born tour guide.  At the next taxi station, we expected the tour to end, as he has a life to go to, but it didn’t.  We meandered up the streets further into the new medina, into a shopping centre where we got to meet a man from Fez that does wonders with cloth, saw some silver being crafted (The intricate designs are done in stages and although we didn’t see that being done, can imagine how hard it is) and clothing/shoes etc.  Not just in the centre, but all along the way.  Dropping in on friends here and there as we were talking.

Hassan : A good man is hard to find, unless you are in Tiznit!

Not once did he try to sell us anything.  This bill is going to be huge!  We ended up at a small cafe where we got some soup.  This was good as we were both starving by then.  It was great.  We talked a lot about life, and a little about religion and politics.  It is hard to avoid these subjects, but we tried.  It is just that they are so entwined with life and culture.  After the soup disappeared, we had some good coffee, to finish the night (our conversation had not finished..) and by the end, the cafe had taken away all the seats except ours, swept the floors, and waiting patiently for us to leave.  He had taken us to a nice place, that served good food for local prices, and was surprised that we had paid for his.  Hassan offered to take us to meet his mother, but we thought we had taken enough of his time, but said that if we are able to (with us having no idea where we will be tomorrow) we would catch up again.  Thinking this was it, he then walked us back to our hotel.  This was probably a good thing, as we had no idea where we were, but really touched us.

It was the perfect finish to a perfect day.  If somewhat long.  So now I have typed this, I can go to bed.

AA

18 October 2012

This morning we found out that the festival we thought was friday is next Friday.  This threw a bit of a spanner in the works.  We thought we would stay here in Agadir until after the festival.  Everything will shut down for a few days, and we are not sure if it is better to be in a bigger city or smaller.  The bigger cities are less traditional, but we may not get accommodation in a smaller one…  We will find out next week.
For now though, we ar off to find the only english bookshop in Agadir.  Hoping to pick up a rough guide or lonely planet.  After following a few hazy directions we found online, we ended up where we thought it would be.  Nothing.  Just a post office.  There was a market nearby though.  We decided to go for a wander through this.  As it happens the bookshop is on the second story of the market.  It was closed.  Typical.  As we walked off, someone came running up to see what we were after.  Mentioning the bookshop, he informed us that it had closed permanently 3 days ago!  Bummer.  Still, the market was small and nice.  Plenty of Tangine pots (for cooking) decorated plates and knickknacks. The leather goods were of particular quality, but not for us.  Although one of the pots would be good if we could ever get it home.

Agadir’s Souk

From here, we had to walk across half the city to get to the Souk.  This is South East of the main city.  It is a fair hike, and we only have a little map.  Still through trial and error we got closer.  When we were almost there, we found a man who wanted to point us in the right direction.  He even walked us all the way to a smaller market.  Going along he was saying that he wanted no money, as Moroccans are friendly people and he likes Australians that are here to surf.

It was supposed to be just a friendly cup of tea ??

Turns out he is a spice merchant.  He sat us down and made us a cup of tea.  While we were sitting drinking our tea, he explained the differences with Moroccan tea.  The tea itself is sweet, then they add citrus leaves and mint.  It is a fairly mild tea that is naturally sweet.
In the middle of the room there is a table filled with dishes.  These are all different barks, seeds, fungi etc.  The walls were filled from seats to ceiling with jars of unidentifiable contents.  He started going through the table.  Weight loss, vircosus veins, rumertism, arthritis, stomach complaints and the list went on.  This is traditional Moroccan medicine at its best.  Still for someone that knew we didn’t want to buy anything, he was very pushy.  He showed us natural lipstick, and rubbed Amber on one shoulder, Jasmin on the other.  Coloured things on the hands.  The guilt trip of taking up his time and drinking tea was put on, and we had to walk out with a small (expensive) bag of tea.  Coming out we still did not know where the Souk was!  We did find it eventually.  It looks like a fortified building.  Quite large with 20 or 30 gates leading in.  Inside it is fairly well organised and the different sections well markedout.  We started in the Vegetable section, moved though to fruit, and got found by a young man.

Spices and Perfums and Medicine and “All Natural” and “So Cheap” and.. and.. Unfortunatley no herbs to stop the salesmen from talking..

He  is working at another spice shop.  Saying we were not interested, he still almost dragged us in for a cup of tea.  This time using 5 different ingredients.  Again we got the spielabout Argon oil, and the different spices and remedies.  More lipstick was brought out and smeared on our hands.  More cakes of Jasmin and other nice smelling things smeared over our shoulders.  After about 10 minutes we managed to extract ourselves.  This time without buying anything.  One of the comments people make is about the people with their noses in the air.  This I think is due to the fact that they have been through it all umpteen times a day for the last however long!  We will be like that soon I am sure.

Cameleons for sale. Good luck to put them in your garden.

Now we continued through the markets.  Another cup of tea, and some salt later…  we managed to find a shop selling suitcases.  We needed to buy a new one, as somehow EasyJet had managed to break one of ours.  It had been stuck against something moving, and melted the plastic, bending the axle and breaking it free of the bag.  So we needed a new one.  This involved a lot of haggling, but we managed to find a suitable replacement.  Reaching our shopping quota, we needed to escape from the Souk.  Walking back to the hotel, we decided to go a different way, and ended up in the Industrial quarter of the city.  It was surprising to see that Donkeys and carts were still used here to transport lumber and other things around the city.

All in all it was a good day, and as we are typing this, we still don’t know where we are going tomorrow!

AA

17 October 2012

Agadir

Our first day in Morocco.
We went off to find some better digs.  Where we were last night wasn’t that bad, but for a few extra dollars we found a much better place.  Nicer room, better atmosphere.  The room we were staying was two single beds, with only just enough room for the bags between them.  Tiles falling off the stairs, and cold water.  Now we have a double with a single bed in the room that we can throw our bags on.  More space to move around in.
Our second task is to find tourist information.  This is usually a simple measure.  However in Agadir it is all the way out of town.  There is supposed to be one in the city, but we couldn’t find it.  It was a long walk, through the streets and down towards the beach.  Agadir is a coastal city that has about 10km of beautiful beach line.  However you cannot see this in the city, as there are many 3 and four story buildings.  Walking north we saw the hill that the Kasbah is built on.  About half way to the hill we found Tourist info.  At first we thought it was an office for business or to support smaller centres.  However this was the place.  We got a bit of info about Agadir, and around.  Maps of Morocco and the town.  The people there were very helpful.

Fishies.. Scary Fishies..

As we were so close to the Kasbah, we decided we may as well walk up to it.  At the base of the hill is the old port.  This is used as a small fishing port now.  There is a small fish market just outside here.  The main gates to the newer bigger fishmarkets just down the road.  We met Ali, who showed us around the small market.  All the different types of fish from Long thin Barracudasto flatfish and small shrimp.  From there he took us through to where all the small stalls are set up to cook and sell the fish.

Fresh from the ocean

There are rows upon rows of benches.  Ali says that at lunch they are full, with people waiting for a seat.  As it was quiet now, we could sit there and drink tea.  Chatting about the old king, the new one and how he was modernizing the country.  It was pleasant, so we decided to have lunch at his family’s stall.  On finding out the fish was only 70DH we went for that.  Skipping the squid and small fish etc.  On arrival it was a massive pile of Prawns, calamari, small battered flatfish and pilchards.  On the other side of the plate was a BBQ’d fish.  It was delfishous.
The sting came at the end when we were charged over 300DH for the meal.  To add insult to empty wallet they took the big bottle of water we had bought as well.  Still it was a very good meal.  As we left to go up to the Kasbah, Ali stuck his hand out for more money!

View from the hill

We wandered up to the base of the hill and started following the pathway.  There were rocks, and plants and goats and things.  The air was full of sounds.  Mainly of a big dog barking aggressively at us.  There was a young man nearby who yelled out not to worry.  He jumped down to join us.  He started walking with us, explaining that the dog was there to protect the goats.  However the goats looked after themselves.  Around sunset they would take themselves back to their home.  Our new friend explained he was a tour guide, but before he could get any further we told him we had no money.  This was no problem for him and he continued walking with us.  Telling us about Agadir.  How it was only 50 years old, and in the 1960’s there had been a massive earthquake (29th Feb 1960).  This leveled the old city and most of the Kasbar.  It also killed thousands of people.  Due to the infrastructure breakdown a lot of people died afterwards of disease and other issues.  There was no way to deal with all the dead, so they left them where they were and covered them with the remains of the city and dirt.  They are still there to this day.

Original bit of wall

On reaching the walls of the Kasbah, we were surprised to see so many camels.  It would have been nice if there were a few at the bottom of the hill, so we didnt have to walk all that way!  There were also jewlery stalls and people selling agates.  They were beautiful.  Specked and different colours.  When we were explaining we had no money as we had been ripped off at lunch, they were shocked.  We were told to go to the police and complain as it was at least 200DH more than it should have been.  We didn’t bother, as word will get around.  We told the guys the stall number and a few other people as well.

Entering the Kasbah we found nothing.  Rocks, dust, a few plants.  The evidence of goats and a few people.  Ther was nothing left.  Just some of the walls.  However the view was amazing.  You could see down into the docks.  All the big fishing boats that go out for months at a time, down to the small ones that just go for the night.  Further around you can see the new city of Agadir stretching back from the coast into the Anti-Atlas mountains.

Agadir beach

The walk back down was simple and nice.  We went back down to the beach and walked along the boulevard.  They have done a good job here, as there is a breakwater wall then a good wide path then all the cafe’s restaurants and bars.  Even a few casinos.  One thing that has surprised us here is the alcohol.  It is a Muslim country, but there are bars everywhere.  Hotels, some cafes and even supermarkets sell it.
One drawback to this is all the Heineken caps everywhere and green broken glass in big piles or just on the roads.  This can’t all be from tourists.  We were not expecting the cleanest country, having seen Jordan, but this was surprising.  Other than that, what we have seen hasn’t been that dirty.  Dusty yes, garbage in places, but no worse than the back streets of Sydney or Melbourne.

AA