26 January 2013

Larache.  Town or sky?

Larache. Town or sky?

Asilah to Larache

Waking up in Asilah. As our room has no window, we have completely overslept. By the time we pack our bags in the dark and make in out of the house, it is almost 11.00. We drag our bags to the bus station, again through the rain.. Is this wet weather ever going to change?
Apparently there are no buses to Larache today, so we move down the street to the taxi stand. Larache is not far away, and after a quick price negotiation the taxi loads up and we are off. Not much to see along the way, but the raindrops on the window.

Its Pretty.

Its Pretty.  You just had to be there.

Arriving in Larache we stop in at the first hotel we see. The rooms are a bit pricier then we usually do, but with this weather we opt for a bit of extra luxury. (En suite and cable tellie.)
We don’t let the weather get in the way of exploring Larache though. Our shoes, socks and feet have been wet for three days straight anyway, so one more day is not going to make it worse.

Larache is again a seaside town built

Another Alleyway.  You can tell by now that we need to get out of Moroccco.

Another Alleyway. You can tell by now that we need to get out of Moroccco.

by the Spanish. There are quite a lot of old Spanish buildings around, but none are maintained very well. The town has a feel of faded glory about it, but even in the grey weather it does have a bit of charm. The Medina is off course the thing to see, and it has some nice entry gates. We head to the water to visit the Kebitat fortress. This was built by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century and the name means little domes. Unfortunately the domes are the only remaining thing of the fort. It is a ruin that is being propped up by ugly concrete beams.

Public Urinal.  Formally known as the fortress

Public Urinal. Formally known as the fortress

Nowadays it is used as a garbage dump and a place to hang out and get drunk. (Going of all the broken alcohol bottles around) This is a shame as it would have been a great fortress back in the days and even now could be a nice place in the summer sun. We can picture it with some cafes and the views over the ocean and the estuary. Little fishing boats and big trawlers go back and forth and across the river is a beautiful beach.

Church.  A fixer upper

Church. A fixer upper

Back into the Medina to get out of the rain with some lunch. The Medina here is just as beautiful as Asilah, just not as famous. Again the white washed houses with blue accents. It is Friday and a lot of the shops are closed, but even now the town is lively and busy. Along the way we come across an old Catholic church.

Sheep can be tourists too

Sheep can be tourists too

Unfortunately only part of the fasade is still standing, branches of fig trees sticking through the holes where stained glass windows used to be. It looks like it is all about to fall over. Too bad nobody has rescued this old lady..

On the other side of the old town is another fort, Chateau de la Cigogne, built by the Spanish. It is not far, as this is only a small town. We walk all around it, but cannot find a way in. On the side it is attached to the Medina, we cannot follow the old walls as houses and alleyways are built up against it.

Faded Glory.  Larache was once a great place.

Faded Glory. Larache was once a great place.

We lose track and end up wandering the back streets. Even in this weather, laundry is “drying” all over the place. Little splashes of colour in these white, blue and grey streets.
In the mean time the dark clouds have come back in and the skies are opening up.
We call it a day and return to our luxury room for hot showers and bad movies.

The next morning the sun was trying to break the cloud cover and we decided to enjoy another day in Larache.


In between a walk and exploring more of town, we hopped from terrace in the sun with coffee, to terrace in the sun for juice, to terrace in the sun for tea.. A lazy relaxing day 🙂



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