night market pizza’s
Another day in Stonetown, as there is still plenty to see.
Today we head for the markets, to see if we can’t get some stuff to make salad sandwiches or many just some fruit. We stop by the supermarkets along the way, but none of them have any bread.
The market itself is busy and noisy and colourful. Again the fruit and veg off course. The fish market on one side, the meat opposite.
Outside the many many stalls of clothing and shoes and kitchen ware. A small street is dedicated to Kangas and another section to spices. This is the most touristy area and a bit of hassle, but we pass trough quickly. A few stalls on the outside have bread, but it is all white and stale.. So we go for some fruit. Banana’s at 5000 shillings and oranges at 4000.. Sometimes we wish we weren’t so white.. These are no where near what the locals would pay, and so we skip it. We’ll grab a few chapaties on the way back.
We have spend all out time so far in old Stonetown. The area where all the big government buildings were built along the shore with the narrow winding alleyways behind. On the other side of the main road, there is what is called “new town”. Not actually new, but where the poorer people were forced to move back in the day, when old town got too busy. Now it is where most of the people live, as old town is turning more and more into a touristy open air museum. You can really seen the difference after walking the streets of new town for a bit. It is livelier here, more people, normal shops. It has a good feel about it. Old town seems to be a lot of hotels and souvenir shops, but not as lively as less locals live there..
New town is not the prettiest area though. Gone are the colonial buildings and here they have communist apartment blocks. Huge, grey monstrosities lining the streets. Apparently built by the East-Germans, back when Tanganyika was trying socialism.
After a few hours stroll, we are dying for a beer. On the mainland, this was never a problem, as Tanzanians love to drink, but Zanzibar is Muslim. We have not seen any little bars about and are therefore reduced to the touristy beach front and a very overpriced beer, but it is lovely! Good beer, good music and amazing views! The place we have ended up is run by a Belgian, and looking at the menu, we will have to come back for some food. (Fresh pasta, Salmon, etc. All the good things we have not had for a long time)
We hit the Night market again, this time to try out the Zanzibari pizza. As it turns out, it is the same as the Tanga pizza, but they have a lot more varieties here. Savory and sweet, so for dessert we have a banana and Nutella pizza. Sounds really bad, but is really tasty!
Half way through dessert, we are joined by Fisherman George. At first we are stand offish, as we have been hassled enough tonight for tours and boat rides, but this guy seems to just want to talk to us. (In all of Tanzania we have not had one conversation with a Tanzanian, that has not ended up in a sales pitch or a hand out. Not one person has been interested in just talking with us. We feel we have not had much to do with the normal Tanzanians, as we only get approached by the people in the tourist industry.. Unfortunately we have also not been able to learn much about the country or how people feel about it.. We have had lots of great conversations, but none of these people were Tanzanian. Germans, Kenyan, Dutch, etc.)
Happily surprised we chat away for an hour or so. He tells us that Tanzania is the opposite of the west. “Here we pretend to care about each other, but we don’t. The rich get richer, while the poor will never get a chance. The rich or the government will not help them. In the west you say you don’t care about each other, but you all pay to have a system that will look after the less fortunate.”
Finally some interesting insights.
We agree to meet him again tomorrow for a beer. He does now mention that he has a boat and will be taking tourists out the day after, but we chose to ignore that sales pitch. He is a nice guy, and we might consider taking his boat if we want to go out on the water.
Later than expected we make it back to the rooms.